Augustl 1, 2010
I reworked wiring and added some extra circuits in the trailer,so we would have the outlets we needed and also be able to handle the amps. we would need. You can also see that the wooden studs in the walls and over head wood is only 1by2 inch pine. The ceiling was sagging down some, so I bought some 3/4 inch aluminum angle and screwed them in on each side. That would help a lot when I went back with the new Birch veneer.
The insulating of the trailer went pretty fast, I bought 4 by 8 foot sheets of insulation and cut it to fit. The insulation was 3/4 inch same thickness as the pine wood. I would mark the width I needed with A black pen then cut it with a razor blade knife , I also had a Roto-Zip tool that came in handy.
You can see the copper tubing and wire in the side of the wall. That is when I got my note book back out and made a drawing of every stud and brace in each side,top, back, and front of trailer. When you begin to put veneer back in you have to know where those wires are so you want run a nail or screw in them.
I've been working hard replacing the insulation and veneer. The blue masking tape is marking studs where wires are going though the wall. Buying prefinished veneer saved me a lot of time and work. If you use prefinished veneer do not leave the tape on any longer then necessary.
It's beginning to take shape again and look like a trailer on the inside although still along ways to go. You are looking at the overhead cabinets in the front of the trailer.
The shelf in the bottom picture will go in the back of the trailer. I had to remake it with new veneer. I used the old shelf as a pattern and also reworked front shelf. Getting the veneer back in the trailer really stiffened the trailer back up.
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