Putting windows back in the trailer, and designing frame for front windows

March 20 2011


I tried to work on the  windows every chance I had so that when I reached the point I could put them back in they would be ready. It took a lot of time cleaning and polishing, but they are now ready. I ordered some Bula tape in order to seal the windows. I put the windows back in with stainless steel screws.

The two front windows I traced an outline on poster board and took it to a glass shop and had new plexiglass cut to fit.  Shalie researched on the computer to find a rubber seal that I could  put around the edge of the plexiglass. I designed a Birch wooden window frame so that when I placed the rubber and glass inside the window opening and then pulled the wooden frame up tight water can not get into the opening. At least that is my hope, as these windows are notorious for leaking.   let you know later how it works .

This is the new plexi -glass, with rubber seal installed and pulled up tight from the inside with the Birch frame. I think it really looks nice. It was really a matter of trying to design a way to make this window better than new. 










                  

 

The rear window had to be completely rebuilt plus putting a new screen in it. It took some time but I am pleased with the end result and  that is what matters. Getting that bead to stay in the channel when I was replacing the screen tried my patience. I can laugh about it now, but wasn't laughing at the time.  Ha Ha !

Building the bed frame for the double bed

February 17 2010

That is my wife and my son sitting to the left of me. We were putting our heads together planning the frame so that my wife and I would both be comfortable at night when we would be using the trailer.





This is my son and I burning a little night oil while working on the the rear bed frame. The exterior of the trailer is pretty close to as it came from the factory except for the furnace vent by the door. The inside I changed a few things a little to make it more comfortable for us. The original   seat went all the way across the back,but would not pull out for two people. We built the bed to where it had storage under it and also would pull forward so the back cushion could slide down and make a double bed

That is the framing in place and veneer running across the front. The two outside storage spaces you get two from the outside compartment doors, the center storage you raise the plywood that the cushions  rest on to get what you need .







This just another shot of the frame, and floor.

Back to the inside to put in insulation and start replacing veneer,and new wiring

Augustl 1, 2010
I reworked wiring and added some extra circuits in the trailer,so we would have the outlets we needed and also be able to handle the amps. we would need. You can also see that the wooden studs in the walls and over head wood is only 1by2 inch pine. The ceiling was sagging down some, so I bought some 3/4 inch aluminum angle and screwed them in on each side. That would help a lot when I went back with the new Birch veneer.
 

The insulating of the  trailer went pretty fast, I bought 4 by 8 foot sheets of insulation and cut it to fit. The insulation was 3/4 inch same thickness as the pine wood. I would mark the width I needed with A black pen then cut it with a razor blade knife , I also had a Roto-Zip tool that came in handy.

You can see the copper tubing and wire in the side of the wall. That is when I got my note book back out and made a drawing of every stud and brace in each side,top, back, and front of trailer. When you begin to put veneer back in you have to know where those wires are so you want run a nail or screw in them.

I've been working hard replacing the insulation and veneer. The blue masking tape is marking studs where wires are going though the wall. Buying prefinished veneer saved me a lot of time and work. If you use prefinished veneer do not leave the tape on any longer then necessary.

It's beginning to take shape again and look like a trailer on the inside although still along ways to go. You are looking at the overhead cabinets in the front of the trailer.




The shelf in the bottom picture will go in the back of the trailer. I had to remake it with new veneer. I used the old shelf as a pattern and also reworked front shelf. Getting the veneer back in the trailer really stiffened the trailer back up.

Painting is Completed!! WooHoo!

July 8,  2010
 Finally the painting was completed and this is the finished product after all the tape and paper has been removed. I painted the trailer hitch and bumper white to match the trailer.

When you are preparing your trailer for painting take your time when removing dings and dents in the siding. I thought I had done a pretty good job, but when I begin to spray that finish coat on I didn't have any problem seeing the area's that I should have given a little more tender loving care. I am still pleased with how it turned out. This one and one more will be two for me! HA HA

I had already rebuilt  the door frame and prepared it for painting. So I just had to make sure I matched up the stripe on the door with the one on the trailer.









This has been a long process, sanding, priming and removing dents and dings. It is very important to
wear a good respirator during this process for your protection.
After having painted the trailer I removed the wheels and had them
powder coated to match the red stripe. I will next order baby moon hubcaps.

Paint Booth, Priming and Taping

June 3, 2010

This was our make shift paint booth. We hung plastic from the rafters to the floor on three sides of the trailer. We wanted to keep as much dust as possible out of the painting area. I also did not want to get paint on  everything else in the shop. We also put an exhaust fan in the front door to help pull the paint fumes out.

I put 2 inch masking tape around the trailer where the stripe was located. I then sprayed etching primer on all the bare metal, so that when I came back and primed the entire trailer it would all bond to the aluminum siding.

The top half has been primed and painted white then covered with paper again so the bottom of the trailer can be painted it's finish color of blue-green.

The trailer has been covered with paper and the stripe has been masked off so that the red stripe can be painted down the side of the trailer.  This was quite a learning process.
 

Putting the floor under the trailer

April 4, 2010

I purchased new 3/4 inch plywood and new black fiber board to go under the plywood. I used carriage bolts to pull it all down. I pulled the bolts down far enough that the flooring could be puttied over and then smoothed. This was in preperation  for the Armstrong vinyl checkerboard flooring that would be glued down.

You can see that all the 2X4's were replaced, that was under the floor also.









Next I took the framing down that had supported the trailer while the floor and frame was being worked on. I was happy to see that go, I can't tell you how many times I would raise up and hit my head on it. Ha Ha  That was the frame of many names!

The the floor has now been put back in place and the trailer lowered to the floor and reattached. . Next,  I am going to move to the outside of the trailer and prepare it for painting while the weather is warm.