Back to the inside to put in insulation and start replacing veneer,and new wiring

Augustl 1, 2010
I reworked wiring and added some extra circuits in the trailer,so we would have the outlets we needed and also be able to handle the amps. we would need. You can also see that the wooden studs in the walls and over head wood is only 1by2 inch pine. The ceiling was sagging down some, so I bought some 3/4 inch aluminum angle and screwed them in on each side. That would help a lot when I went back with the new Birch veneer.
 

The insulating of the  trailer went pretty fast, I bought 4 by 8 foot sheets of insulation and cut it to fit. The insulation was 3/4 inch same thickness as the pine wood. I would mark the width I needed with A black pen then cut it with a razor blade knife , I also had a Roto-Zip tool that came in handy.

You can see the copper tubing and wire in the side of the wall. That is when I got my note book back out and made a drawing of every stud and brace in each side,top, back, and front of trailer. When you begin to put veneer back in you have to know where those wires are so you want run a nail or screw in them.

I've been working hard replacing the insulation and veneer. The blue masking tape is marking studs where wires are going though the wall. Buying prefinished veneer saved me a lot of time and work. If you use prefinished veneer do not leave the tape on any longer then necessary.

It's beginning to take shape again and look like a trailer on the inside although still along ways to go. You are looking at the overhead cabinets in the front of the trailer.




The shelf in the bottom picture will go in the back of the trailer. I had to remake it with new veneer. I used the old shelf as a pattern and also reworked front shelf. Getting the veneer back in the trailer really stiffened the trailer back up.

Painting is Completed!! WooHoo!

July 8,  2010
 Finally the painting was completed and this is the finished product after all the tape and paper has been removed. I painted the trailer hitch and bumper white to match the trailer.

When you are preparing your trailer for painting take your time when removing dings and dents in the siding. I thought I had done a pretty good job, but when I begin to spray that finish coat on I didn't have any problem seeing the area's that I should have given a little more tender loving care. I am still pleased with how it turned out. This one and one more will be two for me! HA HA

I had already rebuilt  the door frame and prepared it for painting. So I just had to make sure I matched up the stripe on the door with the one on the trailer.









This has been a long process, sanding, priming and removing dents and dings. It is very important to
wear a good respirator during this process for your protection.
After having painted the trailer I removed the wheels and had them
powder coated to match the red stripe. I will next order baby moon hubcaps.

Paint Booth, Priming and Taping

June 3, 2010

This was our make shift paint booth. We hung plastic from the rafters to the floor on three sides of the trailer. We wanted to keep as much dust as possible out of the painting area. I also did not want to get paint on  everything else in the shop. We also put an exhaust fan in the front door to help pull the paint fumes out.

I put 2 inch masking tape around the trailer where the stripe was located. I then sprayed etching primer on all the bare metal, so that when I came back and primed the entire trailer it would all bond to the aluminum siding.

The top half has been primed and painted white then covered with paper again so the bottom of the trailer can be painted it's finish color of blue-green.

The trailer has been covered with paper and the stripe has been masked off so that the red stripe can be painted down the side of the trailer.  This was quite a learning process.